Arunima Majhi

I met with young and ambitious fashion designer Arunima Majhi while I was in Mumbai last time. We drank some tea and had a chat about the status of the Indian fashion panorama.

我在孟买时见到了年轻有为的时装设计师Arunima Majhi。我们边喝茶边聊印度的时尚界。她深色的眼里一直有闪亮的光芒。

DSC05788Arunima is proud of her roots, and at the same time she can’t ignore the fact that we leave in a global world.

Arunima对自己的根感到自豪,但同时她无法忽略我们生活在同一个地球村的事实。她的作品,‘金星飞行陷阱’,由一系列充满未来感的晚礼服组成,这是为了那些热爱自己的女性而设计的。

DSC05793Indian designers just had their shows at PFW. Is their work representative of what is currently going on in the Indian fashion panorama?

Manish Arora is iconic, Rahul Mishra an inspiration and the Miuniku girls are doing something entirely unexpected out of Indian designers. Bridal and ethnic-wear is a major chunk of the Indian market.However, there have always been designers doing the alternative. It’s only now, that inspiration and information are a click away. India is no different. Our generation has grown up from getting 2 hours of American cable to countless all-day English channels. The world is shrinking as we speak and the amalgamation of influences in inevitable.

印度设计师刚刚在PFW走秀。他们的作品能够代表当前印度的时尚界吗?

Manish Arora是标志性的,Rahul Mishra是充满启发性的,而Miuniku女孩,作为印度设计师,她们所做的是完全出乎意料的。新娘和民族的服饰是印度市场的重要部分。但是,还是有很多设计师做非主流的东西。只不过现在,灵感和信息一点鼠标即可获得。印度也不例外。我们这代人,从小时候只能收到2个小时的美国电视,到现在能够一整天接收不间断的英语节目。世界正在缩小,互相影响是不可避免的。

DSC05789You just launched your label in October 2013, slightly more than one year ago, and the line ‘Venus fly trap’ in August 2014 . What’s your evaluation of this experience so far? 

It’s has been a rollercoaster! What I have learnt so far is that I need to stick to my gut. Multi-tasking has to be second nature. Debuting at Lakme Fashion Week taught me a lot about marketing and PR which are imperative to a label in it’s nascent stages.That, I think is tougher than designing!

你刚刚在2013年10月推出了自己的标签,只是刚刚一年前的事情,2014年8月你又推出了新的系列‘金星飞行陷阱’。你对这段经历有什么评价吗?

这是段过山车般的经历!我从中学到的是,我需要坚持自己的直觉。能够同时做多项工作是第二重要的。在拉克美时装周的亮相让我学到了很多关于市场和公关的知识,这在品牌的最初阶段是非常重要的。我觉得比设计更难!

AMAJHI5Where does your inspiration come from?

Art, nature and science predominantly. There is such a beautiful relationship between art, function and nature. What inspires me on a day to day basis is uniqueness and individuality. I love imperfections and beauty in what people perceive to not be beautiful.

你的灵感从何而来?

主要是艺术,自然和科学。艺术,功能和自然之间的关系如此美好。每天都激励我的是独特性和个性。我热爱不完美和从人们不认为美的事物中发现美。

SSP_20140820_00007How do your creations empower women to stand out?

Women need to be more accepting of themselves. They need to stop subscribing to the dictated notions of beauty. I’d like to think my creations are for all women. Size and shape no bar. When I’m designing a line, I incorporate designs for various body types. Fashion for me, is a democracy. I celebrate diversity.

你的作品如何赋予女性脱颖而出的权力呢?

女性需要更多的接受自己。她们需要停止接受美的固有概念。我认为我的创作是针对所有女性的。高矮和身材都没有限制。当我设计一个系列时,我为不同的身材设计。时尚对我来说,是民主。我庆祝多样性。

SSP_20140820_00009You studied at NIFT in Mumbai – do you think that studying abroad would have made a difference in your career?

NIFT is at par with international fashion schools. However, studying in the EU or US does give you an edge. You have an opportunity to be discovered by scouts, agencies and competitions that promote new fashion. Also you have an opportunity to work with top fashion houses and get ground-trained with the best .Having said that, I hope the scene changes in India. Private funding and government subsidies need to be in place for creative professionals like me who do not come from money.

你曾在孟买的NIFY学习 – 你认为出国留学会使你的职业生涯有什么不同吗?

NIFY跟国际时装学校并无大异。当然,在欧洲或者美国学习的确给你优势。你有机会被领先时尚的猎头,相关机构和比赛所发掘。你同样会有机会和顶级时装公司工作,并接受最好的训练。说到这里,我希望印度这方面也会有所变化。私募基金和政府补贴需要考虑到创意产业人士,像我这种不是含着金钥匙出生的人。

SSP_20140820_00013Do you think the Indian audience is ready to acknowledge the value of designer’s pieces?

Indians want value for money from groceries to automobiles. The percentage of population that buys designerwear is very small. The percentage within that percentage which buys ethnic-wear far outweighs  western-wear. They tend to spend on wedding trousseaus which is the most important social event of their lives. So as a western-wear designer in India, my market is very small and very niche, but fairly knowledgeable.

你认为印度观众已经准备好认可设计师作品的价值了吗?

印度人希望一切都物有所值,从杂货到汽车。购买设计师服饰的人的比例非常小。在这些人里,买民族服饰的人的比例又大大超过购买西方服饰的比例。人们一般把钱花在婚礼服饰上,因为这是一辈子里最重要的社交活动。所以作为一名设计西式服装的印度设计师,我的市场非常小众,但我还算懂行。

SSP_20140820_00014Does a balance between being fresh and cutting-edge as a designer and at the same time producing commercially viable pieces exist?

It’s commercially viable only in the long run. Right now, I’m only trying to gain some foothold in the industry on my own terms. I cannot price myself out of the market. This means lower margins, therefore less profit. But also, if you have nothing new to offer, you don’t have a valid reason to be here.

作为一位走在潮流前端的设计师,能否在生产商业化的服饰中找到平衡?

商业化的可行性要从长远来看。目前,我只是试图以我的方式在这个行业中立足。这就意味着更低的利润和盈利。但是,如果你没有新的东西可提供,你就没有必要存在在这里。

SSP_20140820_00015 (2)Arunima’s target client is between 25 and 40, and with an innate desire to stand out. And this doesn’t surprise me at all. Arunima herself is very determined to be successful and to make a difference. And I wish her the best of luck.

Arunima的目标客户在25岁到40岁之间,并且有种与生俱来的欲望来脱颖而出,大声说出自己的想法。我并不感到吃惊。Arunima她自己非常坚定会成功,并希望能给印度和全球的时尚界带来变化。我祝她好运。

SSP_20140820_00018Arunima Majhi e’ una delle designer indipendenti che si stanno facendo notare in India per il coraggio, la creatività’ ed il talento. Da sempre interessata a tirare fuori la bellezza in ogni donna, e’ anche impegnata a costruire un business che le permetta di auto-sostenersi. In una società, quella indiana, ancora dominata dal maschilismo, Arunima ha le idee chiare e vuole lasciare un segno tutto al femminile. I suoi abiti sono il mezzo più potente a sua disposizione.

DSC05796For the chat with Arunima Majhi at Indigo Deli I was delighted to wear:

我的时尚搭配:

Black dress小黑裙: Max & Co.

Silver necklace银色项链: Nicotra di San Giacomo

Bangle手镯: Accessorize

Silver ring银色戒指: Furla

Red bag红色包包: Fendi

Sunglasses太阳镜: Celine

Nail colors 甲油: OPI a roll in the hague

 

The pictures at Indigo Deli were taken with my white Sony NEX-5T.

Indigo Deli的照片由我的白色索尼NET-5T拍摄。

For all the other pictures, special thanks to Arunima Majhi.

特别感谢Arunima Majhi提供其它照片。


Post a new comment