Divka

THE HARD BALANCE BETWEEN CONCEPT AND BUSINESS. 纠结的平衡——概念 VS. 商业。

Takayuki Tanaka is the designer from Divka, Tokyo-based independent label. After graduating from Saint Martin in London, and collaborating with John Galliano and Miki Fukai, Taka started his own brand back in 2001. Since then he has been looking for a balance between his desire to innovate the fashion panorama, and the necessity to make his business sustainable.

田中隆行,日本独立设计师品牌Divka创立者,毕业于伦敦中央圣马丁艺术学院,曾经与约翰·加利亚诺、日本Miki Fukai合作,并于2001年创建自属设计师品牌Divka。自此,在时尚行业现状下努力创新,并同时保证品牌可持续发展成为田中一直努力要达成的目标。

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We met up in Omotesando when I was in Tokyo, and, over a very foamy cappuccino, we discussed about Japanese fashion scene and the challenges for independent designers in a world dominated by fast-fashion giants like Uniqlo and H&M.

旅行东京期间,我们在表参道约了本次访谈见面。在卡布奇诺香浓的氛围中,我们讨论了当下日本的时尚行业现状,在快餐式的时尚巨头优衣库以及H&M挤压下独立设计师面临的挑战和机遇。

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How would you describe Tokyo fashion scene?

I would say it’s completely different from Europe’s. Even Tokyo Fashion Week, which is supposed to be the most interesting event of the year, is not particularly interesting, there is nothing new and no international coverage and exposure. It’s a pity, because the underground scene is pretty vibrant – it’s just that the big public in not yet aware of it.

你会怎样形容当下的东京时尚?

我认为东京时尚与欧洲的完全不同;就连东京时装周,这个本应该是年度最有意思的活动都显得有些乏味、无聊。没有什么新意,缺乏国际影响力和曝光度。这点挺遗憾的,但隐蔽在这表象下的东京时尚非常活跃,只是大众还没有意识到而已。

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You studied in London. How does this influence your style?

Studying abroad is very important for every Japanese designer. Here at fashion school they teach you to develop your practical skills – and this is why we are in general very good at doing clothes, at keeping the quality high. Abroad it’s more about the concept behind a collection – they teach you how to do research, how to draw inspiration out of your daily experiences. I personally chose London back in 2006 because it looked so exotic to me. After having been to Parsons for a summer course, I found NY somehow similar to Tokyo, and really wanted to try something different instead.

你曾在伦敦学习,这段学习经历对你的工作有什么影响吗?

海外求学的经历对每一位日本设计师来说都非常重要。在日本的艺术学校,老师们会教学生们最实用的技术,所以我们更善于“做”衣服,保证制作的质量。而国外更注重成衣背后的理念,老师更注重做研究,如何从日常生活中汲取灵感。2006年,我选择再回到伦敦,这个城市对我来说仍然充满了灵感。我在帕森斯设计学院完成了一个暑期课程,之后我觉得纽约在某些方面和东京很相似,我特别想尝试些不同的方面。

DIVKA04

What’s the message you want to share with your public?

I grow up in the Nineties, when everything around fashion was vibrant and exciting. . Today it’s not like this anymore. Young people are not interested in what they wear – they wear Uniqlo or H&M. And don’t think it’s about a tight budget: when I was a teenager I would save money for months in order to buy a designer piece. I think it’s about misinformation – they have no idea about what’s going on in the fashion world. My message is to educate them about the difference in owning a fast-fashion product or a designer one.

你愿意向公众传达怎样的信息?

我成长在90年代,所有跟时尚相关的都十分活跃,令人兴奋。现在,一切都不一样了。年轻人不再关注他们身上穿的是优衣库还是H&M,他们不觉得这个选择是因为有限的采购预算,而事实的确如此。我还是个孩子的时候,我会攒钱去买一件设计师的作品。我觉得这属于信息的误传,他们对于时尚界一无所知。我希望能够告诉公众,真正的设计作品与快餐时尚的差别。

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How would you define your new collection?

Everything about it is interesting. Starting from the creation phase: we drape the fabric on the body directly – we don’t do any sketches, as we find it would stop the creative process. I have everything in my mind from the very beginning and I try to be innovative and to break the rules. We don’t think in terms of fabric or design. We just go with the flow, and the choice of the fabric is just the very last step.

你如何定义最新一季的作品?

有趣。从创作的阶段开始,我们会直接把布料围在模特身上,跳过画图阶段—画图会阻碍创作。从一开始,所有的一切都在我的脑子里,我希望能够创新,打破陈规。所以,我们不考虑材料、纸上设计。一切都顺着思路而行,布料则是最后才会考虑的事情。

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Whom do you sell to?

We mainly work with local and international buyers, but we also have a base of loyal customers. They are manly people who are interested in fashion, and they are our biggest supporters. For now we only do womenswear; this is because we love women (!)  ad because in general dresses are more interesting than suits & co. But we don’t rule out the possibility of opening to a male audience: some of the pieces in our collection are in fact unisex.

你们的顾客都是哪些?

我们主要是与本地还有国际买手合作,同时也有一批忠实的顾客,他们通常是时尚达人,也是我们品牌最忠实的顾客。目前,我们只做女性时装,哦,我们热爱女性。当然啦,成衣比通勤服装更让我们感兴趣。但是,我们也不排除将来会做男装,实际上我们一些作品是不分性别的。

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Do you only use black and white in your collections?

We use black and white, and all the colours in between. Most of our colours love and are used to wear dark colours, so we need to keep them satisfied. But an important part of our mission is also to educate them to like and enjoy something new and different. This is why we are planning to have more bold colours in the future!

你的作品中会使用黑白色吗?

会,当然还有很多介于黑白中间的色彩。我们大多数的顾客喜欢深颜色,所以我们也要满足他们的需要。但是,我们有一项很重要的责任是要向顾客普及,尝试新的不同的东西。所以,我们未来会引入更多大胆的色彩。

DIVKA02

Who is your favourite designer in the fashion history?

I used to like Yohji Yamamoto a lot – his avant-garde spirit, and his power to create designs far removed from current trends. But at this time I don’t understand what’s going on with big names out there. They behave like stars, not artisans. I’m not sure if the whole fashion world turned upside down, or if I’m just different from the fashion student I used to be before.

你最欣赏的设计师是谁?

我曾经非常欣赏Yohji Yamamoto,他的设计总是很大胆,走在所有人的前面,从来不惧创新。但是现在我不太能理解那些名声响当当的设计师了,他们更像是明星,而不是艺术家。我不确定时尚界是不是已经颠覆了,还是我已经与过去那个学习艺术设计的我不同了。

DIVKA01

Taka seems to be somehow uncomfortable in the contemporary fashion panorama – he doesn’t understand young people and their style choices and at the same time he doesn’t recognise himself in any of the trends currently on.

在当下的时尚圈里,田中显得有点格格不入,他对于年轻人的时尚品味和选择不太能理解,同时对自己处于时尚潮流的位置拿捏不定。

DIVKA08

He just humbly keeps doing his job – and he made me think that the vibration should start from a well-designed and realised dress and end with a glamorous twirl of money, celebrities, glossy magazines. And definitely not the other way around.

他只是低调地做着一位艺术设计师该做的工作,也给我带来了启发,并加深了我对艺术设计的观点:即艺术设计的活力应始于优秀的设计和成形的作品,之后才是关于金钱,名流,和闪闪发光的时尚杂志。

DIVKA14

Takayuki Tanaka e’ un designer giapponese che ho incontrato a Tokyo. Dopo ager studiato a Londra, e’ rientrato a Tokyo e ha fondato il suo brand. Oggi si trova a disagio nel fashion system: dice di non riconoscersi ne’ nei giovani che non prestano attenzione a quello che indossano, ne’ nei designers che sono sempre più stars e sempre meno ‘sarti’. E dice che si presta attenzione agli aspetti sbagliati: celebrity, denaro, pagine patinate. Come dargli torto?

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For the chat with Takayuki Tanaka in Omotesando I was delighted to wear:

与田中隆行访谈,我的搭配是:

Coat 大衣: Weekend by Max Mara

Scarf 围巾: 加普亚Capua (位于罗马马尔兹广场32/33 Rome, via di Campo Marzio 32/33)

Bag 包包: Gucci

The picture of Taka and me was taken with my Sony NEX-5T. For all the other pictures, special thanks to Takayuki Tanaka.

田中的采访照片由我的索尼NEX-5T拍摄,本访谈其他照片由田中拍摄。

 

Translation by Jasmine Wang.

翻译由Jasmine完成.


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