INSPIRATION? A SET OF PAINTINGS OF TROPICAL FISH BY MY GRANDMOTHER. 灵感来源？祖母画的热带鱼.
Rose Fulbright moved to Beijing from England last summer – and in less than one year her luxury lingerie brand [www.rosefulbright.com] became part and parcel of the extremely vibrant local fashion scene.
Rose Fulbright去年夏天从英国搬来北京 – 不到一年的时间，她的奢华内衣品牌[www.rosefulbright.com]已经成为本地无比活跃的时尚界里重要的组成部分。
When we met in her studio in the CBD to have a look at her new Tropical Collection, she told me that from the very beginning her only goal has been to design loungewear and lingerie pieces women would feel amazing in.
What was supposed to be a quick preview of her new collection ended up being a lovely chat about fish, China and amazing European silk.
There are colourful fishes on these elegant robes and pyjamas. Where do they come from?
My grandmother Susan Williams-Ellis was a very keen diver, one of the first people to do scuba diving in the 40s. She was also an artist and during her trips she would paint marine life. She used to travel the world to scuba dive in the Pacific, Caribbean and Indian Oceans. She would take the tracing paper under water and do her sketches. When I was a kid, I was really inspired by her paintings hanging in her studio in Wales.
And then? How did these fishes become part of your collection?
I wanted a marine theme for this collection – I wanted fish. But I was not thinking about my grandmother’s drawings at all. Then my sister gave me this amazing idea – and it felt completely natural to use them. Also as a way to pay a tribute to the amazing woman she was. I had to work hard on them to create the right pattern and to isolate the right colours. But it all makes perfect sense now – and I’m extremely satisfied now. And proud of the talent women in my family have.
我对于这个系列的设想是海洋主题 – 我想要鱼类。但那时我完全没有想到祖母的画。然而我的姐姐给了我这个完美的想法 – 将它融合到主题里是件自然而然的事情。同时也是向这位充满魅力的女人致敬。我必须要特别努力的工作，来创作出正确的图案和对的颜色。但这一切都顺其自然 – 我现在不能更满意了。我对家庭里女性的天赋充满了骄傲。
Which pieces are in the Tropical Collection?
Hand-made in Britain, the Tropical Collection is inspired by loungewear pieces favoured by the Bloomsbury Set of 1920s London. There are:
- Bequia Robe – kimono robe, lined in grey crepe silk in two different versions: full length or knee lenght;
- Furama Pyjama and Malindi Pyjama – silk satin sets (top & trousers) with a loose fit. Tops are finished with french seams and a binding at the neck and arms, and legs are cut straight, and cropped at the ankle for a chic, beach-pyjama feel.
What I love about this collection is that if you are bold enough you can wear these pieces anywhere – and be glamorous in a very unique way.
- Bequia 睡袍 – 和服睡袍，由灰色丝绸围绕，两款选择分别是：长款和及膝款；
- Furama 睡衣和 Malindi 睡衣 – 宽松款丝缎套装（上衣和睡裤）。上衣由法式缝制并在脖颈和手臂有镶边，裤子垂直剪裁，脚腕处带有时尚沙滩睡衣风。
Your first Classics Collection was underwear only. How did the shift to loungewear happen?
My Classics Collection, launched in November 2013, comprises beautifully fitted lingerie crafted from soft, luxurious fabrics in a classic and classy colour palette: white, blush and graphite. It took me nearly 6 months to develop the collection, drawing inspiration from lingerie worn in the Roaring Twenties. But I missed designing voluminous shapes in clothing. Also, I enjoy working with prints and colours – I love dramatic shapes. With loungewear I have more freedom.
我的经典系列于2013年11月发售，把完美贴身的内衣用柔软奢华的布料和经典的色彩（白，红，灰）体现出来。我花了近6个月的时间来设计这个系列，设计的灵感来源来自咆哮的二十年代所钟爱的内衣。但我同时很怀念设计那些宽松的服饰。我也喜欢不同的图案和色彩 – 我爱极了极具戏剧化的形状。设计睡衣给予我更多的自由。
How is Beijing treating you?
Very well! I’m excited about the possibilities here. But I still need to do research about what local women want – how much they are willing to pay, what makes them feel beautiful. I need to see the reaction of the audience to my brand, then I’m more than willing to tailor my work to local needs. With expats it’s easier for me – I can relate to them and their taste is similar to mine.
棒极了！这里的多种可能性让我感到兴奋。但我仍需要寻找当地女性想要什么 – 她们可接受的价位，还有哪些元素能让她们感到美丽。我需要看到顾客对我的品牌的反响，我会非常乐意为本土女性量身打造我的设计。对于那些外国顾客，这对我来说比较容易 – 因为她们的品味跟我的比较接近。
In which way is China a source of inspiration for your work?
Women from the East have always been wearing beautiful kimonos and robes – there is plenty of material to look at! But I also deeply love the different patterns you can find in Chinese architecture and art. Just think to the beautiful blues and whites in Buddhist temples! There will be more and more Chinese elements coming in my next collections.
东方女性总是穿着美丽的和服和睡衣 – 这里有足够的素材可供参考。但我也深爱着中国建筑和艺术里那些不同的造型。比方说佛庙里那些漂亮的蓝色和白色。以后会有越来越多的中国元素在我的设计里体现出来。
Is there any other entrepreneur in the lingerie world you look at for inspiration?
Oh well, there is Olivia von Halle [www.oliviavonhalle.com]. She is from England but used to live in Shanghai. She designs lingerie using very Chinese patterns. I think she was the first one to realise there is a market for luxury lingerie. Her collections are artistic and bohemian. Coming home from evenings partying with friends, she would long to ditch her sky-high heels and constricting outfits for something glamorous enough to enjoy a gin and tonic in before sliding off to bed. Inspired by the lounging pyjamas worn by Coco Chanel and her contemporaries in the 1920s, she started work with her tailor to design the perfect pair of pyjamas. Like me, she only cares about giving women something they feel beautiful in.
有啊，Olivia von Halle [www.oliviavonhalle.com]。她来自英国，但曾经住在上海。她的内衣设计里有很多中国元素。我认为她是第一位发现中国存在着奢华内衣的潜在市场的人。她的设计系列艺术感强烈，充满波西比亚风。夜晚跟朋友聚会结束后回到家，她总是迫不及待的脱掉高跟鞋和拘谨的衣服，在上床入睡前换上件美极了的睡衣，来享受一杯金汤丽水。灵感来自可可香奈儿及20年代女性的睡衣风格，她和她的裁缝一起，开始设计一套完美的睡衣。跟我一样，她只在乎给女性设计一件穿上后感觉棒极了的作品。
Pieces from the Tropical Collection are amazing – a fish galore on beautifully designed silk robes and pyjamas. And while chatting with Rose I could think about anything else but her moodboard for her next collection she let me have a look at.
热带系列里的作品真是美极了 – 游动的鱼充满在精美设计的丝绸睡袍和睡衣上。和Rose交谈时，我心里想的全是她为下个系列所准备的灵感板。
She told me there is going to be some water-related feeling, more Chinese touches and elegant blue and white patterns. And I can’t wait for her collection to hit the shops!
Rose Fulbright ha tratto ispirazione dai disegni di sua nonna, l’artista inglese Susan Williams-Ellis, per la sua nuova collezione di lounge wear. Una girandola di pesci tropicali colorati investe kimono e pigiami in seta pura. Per una donna che sa quello che vuole: una sensazione di estremo benessere senza rinunciare alla femminilità e all’eleganza.
For the chat at Rose Fulbright’s atelier I was delighted to wear:
striped top条纹上衣: Cos
Pictures at Rose’s studio were taken with my white Sony NEX-5T.
For all the other pictures, special thanks to Rose Fulbright.
“Photography © Doh Lee 2015”
“Design © Rose Fulbright 2015”
Chinese translation by Vivian Zhou.