Vyshnavi N.Doss

BUILDING A CONTEMPORARY IDENTITY FOR JEWELLERY DESIGN ROOTED IN ASIAN HERITAGE. 采撷亚洲文化精华 塑造珠宝设计的现代身份。

I have a thing for jewellery, and I definitely have a big thing for Indian jewellery. I guess it’s because it’s bold, because it’s eye-catching and it tells me a story of a culture which is far away from my own, and yet so attractive. Moreover, I am a sucker for independent designers – they have that extra drive that makes them so brave and irresponsible in such a special (and cool) way.

我对珠宝有着说不出道不明的暧昧热情,对带有印度文化的珠宝更是深深钟情。它们热情、大胆、一眼就能抓住你所有的注意力,就像是邂逅异域风情的情人,神秘又吸引。而如果碰巧作品出自独立设计师之手,就如同给这份吸引加上了催化剂,催促着你去发掘,去接触,直到被征服。

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I love Vyshnavi, and I totally love her brand Dvibhumi her creations – unique pieces of jewellery she designs in Singapore, where she moved a few years ago from her native India. We met for coffee and while my cappuccino got colder and colder, I couldn’t stop listening to her story – it just reminded me that everything is possible, and that we are all creators of our own destiny.

最近我心水的印度独立设计师是Vyshnavi,几年前她从印度移民到新加坡,并将自己的珠宝品牌Dvibhumi继续发扬光大,各个系列都做的风生水起。于是,在已然紧张的新加坡行程中我还是与Vyshnavi约定了本次访谈。也许是相似的创业经历,我们毫无察觉时间流逝,彼此只留下无限感慨与庆幸。啊,只要坚持自己的梦想,努力去奋斗,我们都是自己奇迹的创造者。

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After working in advertisement for 10 years, she decided to follow her passion and started designing jewellery. We discussed about this and much more.

Vyshnavi曾在广告业打拼十年,后毅然放弃顺风顺水的职场前途,投身自己早年的珠宝设计梦想。我们的谈话就从这里开始了。

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You left your advertisement job to be a jewellery designer. Was the transition smooth?

It happened naturally. During my 10 years in advertising I developed a very deep cultural understanding of what’s around me. My business trips brought me around India and South-East Asia and I learned about the art, architecture, fashion and local customs and traditions of these regions. In a way it was not too difficult to transform all this knowledge into beautiful pieces women from all over the world could wear.

从职场女性转型做设计师,你觉得这个转变顺利吗?

我得说,可能比你想象的要顺利!在广告业十年的工作经验让我学会从更深层次的角度去理解周围所发生的一切,理解现象后面的文化背景。在我因工作而到处奔走,曾辗转于印度和东南亚的其他国家时,我对这些国家的艺术、建筑、时尚、以及当地人们的习俗和传统非常好奇,而且积极地去理解和学习,受益匪浅。从某个角度说,我的设计就是以上感触和经验的外在美丽体现,而全世界的女人们都能通过这些设计找到和我的共通处。

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Which role did Singapore play in this process?

Moving here meant starting a new journey of discovery and self-awareness in a country where nobody had any kind of expectations from me. Singapore is also a medley of cultures, and tradition and modernity and this was hugely influential in shaping my concepts.

那么新加坡在这个转变中发挥了什么样的作用?

定居新加坡对我来说是开启了一次全新的人生旅程。在这个陌生的国家,没有人认识你,也没有人对你有任何期待、偏见; 而新加坡是文化、传统与现代的融合,这对我观念的转变也起到了很重要的作用。

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What are you focusing on right now?

I’m currently focusing on the right partnerships: with retailers, key customers and scouting for workshops. I want to find the right channels to fuel the interest about my pieces and my brand. I travel to Indonesia and India to establish collaborations and I hope to expand my search to other parts of Asia, so that my work can tap into the best local craftsmanship.

目前工作的重心是什么?

目前我最主要的工作是建立合适的伙伴合作关系,比如与零售商、重要客户, 发掘工作室等。我希望能够找到最恰当的渠道,以便激励我继续创造和品牌建设。所以我去印度尼西亚、印度去寻求合作。我当然希望能涉足亚洲的其他地区,期待能接触到当地最好的工艺水平。

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Tell me more about the relationship of Dvibhumi with artisans.

I developed 3 collections so far: KutcheriAyuVibhuti. For every collection I worked with different workshops across Asia. I hope to establish new relationships from time to time. After all it is the artisans with their amazing skills who make every single piece a unique work of art. I depend on them for the beauty of the earrings I design.

跟我们说说Dvibhumi和艺术家们合作的故事吧。

迄今为止,我们一共推出了三个系列的产品:Kutcheri, Ayu, Vibhuti。每一个系列我们和全亚洲不同的工作室合作,期待与新的工作室建立合作关系。他们杰出的技术让每一件作品都独一无二,因此我完全信任他们可以完美实现我的耳饰设计。

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What is Carnatic Music and how can it become a source of inspiration?

The Kutcheri story has evolved from the iconic ornamentation style of great Indian Classical musicians like MS Subbulakshmi. Currently, it offers a range of ear jackets inspired by the seven stone diamond stud that she famously wore as earrings and nose pins. The aesthetic world of Indian Classical music – its rhythm, subject matter, theory, sartorial aspects – will continue to shape new chapters in the Kutcheri Story.

什么是卡纳提克音乐?它是怎样成为你的灵感源泉的?

品牌Kutcheri系列从印度伟大的古典音乐家Subbulakshmi夫人装扮中获得灵感。Kutcher从Subbulakshmi常佩戴的耳饰和鼻饰中获取灵感,推出了一系列耳夹设计。印度古典音乐呈现的美学理念:韵律、主题以及服装都将持续为Kutcheri系列提供更多的设计灵感。

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Where did you learn how to design jewellery?

Everything I have learnt has been on the job. I don’t have any formal training in jewellery design. I just gave it space, and I’m learning by doing – also, I couldn’t be doing this if it was not for the artisans I work with.

你是在哪儿学习的珠宝设计?

我一直边工作边学习, 在珠宝设计方面并没有接受过正式的培训,。在工作的同时提升自己的水平,;而更重要的是与我合作的艺术家们,他们才是真正的专家。

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What’s your ambition for Dvibhumi and forAsian jewellery in general?

When people think of what to wear, I want jewellery to lead, and clothes to follow – at least once in a while. I would like people all over the world to get more comfortable and familiar with Asian design that is rooted in heritage and not pigeonhole it as exotic or traditional.

你对Dvibhumi未来规划是什么?以及对亚洲珠宝的未来设想?

当人们考虑要穿什么的时候,我希望大家先考虑要佩戴什么样的珠宝,然后再考虑搭配什么样的服装——至少偶尔有时会这么想。我希望全世界的人们都能对亚洲的设计更熟悉,更舒服地穿着亚洲设计。它们根植于亚洲文化和亚洲特色,而不是只局限于异域和保守。

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And I can so relate to Vyshnavi – we both left a stable and comfortable situation to embark on a journey where passion and willpower are the only tools we have to succeed. And we are both self-taught – day after day we become more confident and more aware of what’s around us.

我和Vyshnavi之间也有着很自然的联系,我们都离开了原来舒服和熟悉的环境,而开始一段全新的里程,只有凭着我们的热情和毅力才能获取成功。我们都是通过自己创业,日复一日的努力而变得更加自信和更加强大。

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Our chat was lovely – and I’m about to wear my Abhogi ear jacket tonight. As they are a modern day ode to the iconic ornamentation style of the great divas of Carnatic Music, I’ll feel a bit like MS Subbulakshmi. And I can’t wait for that feeling.

和Vyshnavi的谈话是愉快的,今晚我将尝试Abhogi的全新耳夹系列,从Subbulakshmi夫人的时尚形象中汲取灵感的该系列透出典雅和优美。我简直等不及了。

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Gli orecchini che Vyshanvi disegna a Singapore sono bellissimi, e hanno quel gusto esotico ma urbano che oggi le donne cercano in un gioiello. Il suo sogno e’ che un giorno non lontano la scelta dell’outfit parta proprio dagli accessori piuttosto che dagli abiti. L’ho rassicurata – io sono già un bel pezzo avanti.

For the chat with Vyshnavi at Oriole Cafe in Singapore I was delighted to wear:

本次访谈在新加坡的Oriole Café进行,本期搭配如下:

Red tee: American Apparel

红色T恤衫:American Apparel

striped skirt: Zara

条纹裙子:Zara

Sneakers: Converse All Star

运动鞋:Converse All Star

Bangles 手镯: Kate Spade

 

The picture of us together was taken with my Sony NEX-5T.

我们的合影由我的索尼NEX-5T拍摄。

For all the other pictures, special thanks to Dvibhumi.

其它照片感谢Dvibhumi的提供。

 

Translation by Jasmine Wang.

翻译由Jasmine Wang完成。

 


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