Rechenberg autumn/winter fashion show 2015 Rechenberg品牌2015 秋冬秀

TIBET AS THE SOURCE OF INSPIRATION. 西藏之行给她带去很大的启发。

I’ve interviewed Kathrin von Rechenberg a long time ago and have been a big fan since. She is sophisticate, quiet and inspired. For her autumn/winter 2015 collection she has been working with cashmere, merino wool and silk, woolen jersey and boiled wool – go-to winter fabrics and textiles. This year, however, there is the added excitement of soft, handmade felt made from the hair of the Yak, the huge, hairy beast that grazes over so much of the Tibetan plateau and is a staple of the Tibetan tribal economy for its soft hair, milk and meat.

很久之前我采访了Kathrin von Rechenberg自此成为她的粉丝。Rechenberg本人安静、灵动、又是精致和世故的。在2015的秋冬季新品材料上,设计师选择了羊绒、美利奴羊毛、丝绸、精缩的羊绒毛呢等作为主要材质。尤其叫人兴奋的是用牦牛毛手制的毛毡;牦牛的体型巨大,毛发浓密、柔软,是青藏高原人们最重要的经济来源:牦牛柔软的毛、牦牛奶和牦牛肉都是生活在那片高原上人们需要的生活用品。

A trip to Tibet has clearly left a deep impression, and Rechenberg designed pieces that Tibetan tribal woman would be proud to see and wear – practical and warm to allow their wearers to carry out their daily work, often outdoors in the chilly climate conditions of vast open plains. Yet elegant in their muted, earthy colors drawn from a palette that has black as its base and includes mustard, rust, iron grey, the orangey-red hues of Tibetan coral and of course the soft grey-beige of natural Yak.

很显然,Rechenberg的西藏之行给她留下了深刻的印象。品牌15年秋冬系列作品不仅视觉上充满美感、亦十分实用和温暖;既可以满足穿者日常生活,又可以满足在寒冷高原户外作业的穿着需求。本系列作品色彩以温暖的大地色(黑色作为基底,包含芥末黄色,铁锈红,铁灰色,西藏珊瑚红,以及取自牦牛的柔和的灰色/褐色)为主。

Coats and jackets are very long and draped, with close-fitting, cozy necklines. Trousers are wide and worn just above the ankle, often paired with blouses made of silk organza and tea-silk, that manage at once to be both voluminous and closely draped, combining raglan with spiral-cut, leg-of-mutton sleeves for a neatly fitted, draped look that is clearly very comfortable and practical. Coats and jackets are fastened with simple silver and blackened silver brooches, a nod at the jewels worn by Tibetan women, that are often family heirlooms. The overall look is softly falling, draped fabrics executed with sophisticated haute-couture detailing to envelope the wearer. This is contrasted with the feathery finery of natural hand-dyed organza and tea-silk mostly used for her evening wear designs.

长而垂褶的外套和夹克衫剪裁合身,领口线条舒畅。裤子垂至脚踝,脚口宽松,搭配欧根纱/香云纱上衣,造型惬意又线条流畅;螺旋槽的拉格伦,羊腿袖,加上简洁利落的垂皱外形,整体看上去舒服、实用。从外套和夹克上面简单的银/黑银胸针上,可以一窥西藏高原女性们最珍视的家庭传家宝。属于精致高定服装的细节包围着穿者,应用了常见于该品牌晚装的设计心思:诸如精致柔软的配饰、手工印染的欧根纱和香云纱。

To know more about her collection, pay Kathrin a visit in her showroom, amazing courtyard in the heart of Beijing business district (see www.rechenberg.cn for directions).

想了解更多关于Rechenberg系列信息,可以去她位于北京核心商业区的工作室近距离感受。(登陆www.rechenberg.cn了解更多工作室信息)

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Special thanks to Rechenberg for the press release and pictures.

特别感谢Rechenberg提供的发布会信息以及相关图片。

 

Translation by Jasmine Wang.

翻译由Jasmine Wang完成.

 


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