Rechenberg autumn/winter fashion show 2015 Rechenberg品牌2015 秋冬秀
TIBET AS THE SOURCE OF INSPIRATION. 西藏之行给她带去很大的启发。
I’ve interviewed Kathrin von Rechenberg a long time ago and have been a big fan since. She is sophisticate, quiet and inspired. For her autumn/winter 2015 collection she has been working with cashmere, merino wool and silk, woolen jersey and boiled wool – go-to winter fabrics and textiles. This year, however, there is the added excitement of soft, handmade felt made from the hair of the Yak, the huge, hairy beast that grazes over so much of the Tibetan plateau and is a staple of the Tibetan tribal economy for its soft hair, milk and meat.
很久之前我采访了Kathrin von Rechenberg自此成为她的粉丝。Rechenberg本人安静、灵动、又是精致和世故的。在2015的秋冬季新品材料上，设计师选择了羊绒、美利奴羊毛、丝绸、精缩的羊绒毛呢等作为主要材质。尤其叫人兴奋的是用牦牛毛手制的毛毡；牦牛的体型巨大，毛发浓密、柔软，是青藏高原人们最重要的经济来源：牦牛柔软的毛、牦牛奶和牦牛肉都是生活在那片高原上人们需要的生活用品。
A trip to Tibet has clearly left a deep impression, and Rechenberg designed pieces that Tibetan tribal woman would be proud to see and wear – practical and warm to allow their wearers to carry out their daily work, often outdoors in the chilly climate conditions of vast open plains. Yet elegant in their muted, earthy colors drawn from a palette that has black as its base and includes mustard, rust, iron grey, the orangey-red hues of Tibetan coral and of course the soft grey-beige of natural Yak.
Coats and jackets are very long and draped, with close-fitting, cozy necklines. Trousers are wide and worn just above the ankle, often paired with blouses made of silk organza and tea-silk, that manage at once to be both voluminous and closely draped, combining raglan with spiral-cut, leg-of-mutton sleeves for a neatly fitted, draped look that is clearly very comfortable and practical. Coats and jackets are fastened with simple silver and blackened silver brooches, a nod at the jewels worn by Tibetan women, that are often family heirlooms. The overall look is softly falling, draped fabrics executed with sophisticated haute-couture detailing to envelope the wearer. This is contrasted with the feathery finery of natural hand-dyed organza and tea-silk mostly used for her evening wear designs.
To know more about her collection, pay Kathrin a visit in her showroom, amazing courtyard in the heart of Beijing business district (see www.rechenberg.cn for directions).
Special thanks to Rechenberg for the press release and pictures.
Translation by Jasmine Wang.